The short answer is no. While we recommend using our taller oil filters when you have the space inside your cowling, using our shorter filters will still provide more than enough filtration coverage when replacing them at the recommended intervals of 25 to 50 hours.

According to the Slick Magneto by Champion Overhaul Manual L-1363F, the magneto should be overhauled at TBO, lighting strike, prop strike, sudden stoppage of the engine and immersion of the aircraft. 

First, the firing end of the plug must be cleaned of lead, carbon and oil. Once cleaned you can use the Tempest AT5K® or a multi-meter. If using an AT5K please see the tool section of our website. If using a multi-meter place one lead on the center electrode and the second lead on the contact point inside the spark plug terminal well. Be sure that your multi-meter is set to the correct setting.

Both Lycoming and Continental recommend oils qualified under the following specifications for use in their engines:

• SAE J-1899 former MIL-L-22851 (for ashless dispersant oils)
• SAE J-1966 former MIL-L-6082 (for straight mineral oils, intended primarily for break-in)

Military and SAE specifications are the same except for some additional packaging requirements for the military. In the future, the military specification may be dropped, although oil containers will still probably refer to the former military specification.

AeroShell® straight mineral oils, AeroShell Oil W single grades and AeroShell Oil W multigrade oils all qualify under their respective specifications. The oil requirements for other aircraft engines such as Pratt & Whitney are less defined. All AeroShell and AeroShell Oil W oils are qualified for use in P&W radial piston engines. The oils for engines no longer in production may be listed by military specification or by product name.

For more information, talk to an overhaul or repair shop that specializes in a particular engine, or call the Shell Technical Information Center at 1-800-231-6950.

The selection of a proper grease is clearly defined. For each grease point on a certified aircraft, the military specification or the qualified product is listed. AeroShell® greases are qualified under the following specifications:

• AeroShell GREASE 5 former MIL-G-3545-C
• AeroShell GREASE 6 MIL-G-24139A, former MIL-G-7711A AeroShell GREASE 7 MIL-PRF-23827C, TYPE II
• AeroShell GREASE 14 MIL-G-25537C
• AeroShell GREASE 16 former MIL-G-25760A, BMS-3-24A AeroShell GREASE 17 MIL-G-21164D
• AeroShell GREASE 22 MIL-PRF-81322F, Grade 2 DOD-G-24508A AeroShell GREASE 33 MIL-PRF-23827, TYPE I BMS-3-33A

Placing a permanent reference mark at 180°F on the green band of your oil gauge is a good way to get accurate readings.  To do this, simply place your sending unit and an accurate, referenced thermometer in a steel container filled with oil, and slowly heat it to 180°F with a hot plate. You may not be able to hold 180°F constant, so first mark your gauge with a pencil as the oil temperature passes 180°F. Then let the oil cool back to 180°F. Repeat the process to ensure accuracy. 

And be extra careful with the hot oil. In a naturally aspirated aircraft engine, a cruise oil temperature significantly below 170°-180°F will not ensure that the moisture in the oil is boiled off, especially during short flights. As oil goes through the engine, the highest instantaneous temperature will be about 50°F higher than the oil sump temperature. 

So, if you have an oil temperature of only 150°-160°F, the oil will not get above the 212°F necessary to boil off the water that can accumulate from condensation. The result is increased moisture and acid buildup in the crankcase, which will probably lead to rust and corrosion. 

Knowing this is especially critical if your aircraft is not flown regularly and sits in a humid climate for weeks at a time. If your oil runs well below the 180°F mark, have your mechanic check your oil cooler system and vernatherm. Also, ask about a winterization kit. 

Conversely, the concern with the typical turbocharged piston engine is excessive heat. In many of these engines, instantaneous oil temperature can increase 70°F or more at its hottest point versus sump temperature.  These high temperatures can cause deposit buildup and increased wear due to improperly cooled components or low oil viscosity. (All oils, especially single grade oils, thin out as the temperature

122 tooth gear rings have a "v" shape, whereas 149 tooth gear rings have a "u" shape. Be aware that just because your aircraft (or engine) is supposed to have a certain ring gear doesn't necessarily mean that it does. You should always confirm and order the correct starter to match. 

The new fully automatic chargers on the market today need to be hooked up to a battery before they will output any voltage. This is primarily a safety feature that prevents spark when hooked up, and protects the charger against reverse polarity hookup. Some chargers need to see as much as 9V volts before they recognize that they are attached to a battery. Once the charger is hooked up, it should output 13.9-14.6 volts. If your charger does not do this, you may want to contact the manufacturer for further troubleshooting tips.

All battery types lose power and capacity as they age. The rate of when this happens depends on the maintenance of the battery and how it has been used (or abused).

• If you notice your battery just doesn’t have the same “umph” as it used to, it might be time to replace it.  In the cold this issue is more prominent.
• If you notice the battery is “swollen.” As the battery ages, gases can build up inside the battery and make the battery look bulging or swollen. The gases are not dangerous or have any safety issue, but the pressure can puff the case.
• If the battery is left in a discharged state and then very quickly charged, the cells can puff causing the case to look bulging.
• The battery will not hold a voltage above 13.28V for the 12V vehicle applications or 26.56V for 24V vehicle applications.
• The fault light is solid or flashing on the battery models that have the LED alert and is consistently on for days.

The Kickback Protection System or KPS® for the NL and NL/EC family of starters is through a field-replaceable shear pin. When energizing the starter, if the pinion engages the flywheel and the starter motor spins (or at least sounds like it is spinning), but the starter’s pinion gear does not rotate you should replace the shear pin.

The polymers and carnauba wax in D A M window cleaner lubricate and encapsulate the abrasive dust and dirt particles so they slide on the plastic surface until they are absorbed deep into the wipe-off towel. The dust and dirt particles are still there, but they cannot get a damaging grip on the plastic surface. After the D A M cleaner is polished off it leaves a protective film that also helps prevent abrasion penetration of dust and dirt particles.

Never wipe a plastic surface when it is dry (or extensively while wet with just water) as some of the abrasive particles will be gouged into the surface, causing scratches.

Baffles and seals are critical to keeping an engine cool, yet they’re often overlooked.  When you’re flying, air enters the cowling and creates static pressure above the engine. This pressure then forces cool air down through your cylinders and oil cooler to the lower pressure areas below and behind the engine. From there, the air travels out through the flaps or other flaring openings. 

What’s important to consider is that there is only a given amount of air coming in through the cowling at any given time. If your baffles are broken or misshaped, the amount of air going past a particular cylinder or area will increase. And if you increase airflow in one area, then airflow past other cylinders and the oil cooler will decrease, leading to higher temperatures in some parts of the engine than others.

Seals can create similar problems. If your seals aren’t in good condition or aren’t properly adjusted, they’ll allow air to bleed out.  Which can reduce static pressure and cooling. So what can you do? Whenever you install a new engine, always have the baffles checked. Also, as part of your periodic inspections, check all the seals for fit and condition. 

If the seals aren’t soft and pliable, replace them. Do this if your oil or cylinder temperatures seem abnormally high as well. Also check how the seals fit against the cowling. If there are noticeable gaps, adjust the seals to reduce air leakage. Be sure to inspect the holes at the rear of the cowling for excessive leakage. If your cylinder heads still run hot, it may be necessary for you or your mechanic to check the static air pressure above the engine during flight. The spec should be available from your airframe manufacturer.

Preheating your engine makes a world of difference. This procedure heats the oil so it’s thin enough to flow through the engine and properly lubricate all critical wear surfaces.  Preheating also heats the metal parts in the engine. That’s important because aluminum crankcases have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than iron crankshafts. 

This means as your engine cools down, the clearance is reduced.  And as a result, you may not have sufficient oil film thickness for proper hydrodynamic lubrication at very cold temperatures. In other words, the wear rate is going up. 

One final note of caution on heaters: Do not plug in a heater and leave it on for extended periods of time. If you have moisture in your oil, the heater will increase vaporization, which will condense on the cool, nonheated engine parts and increase rusting.

Airplane air/oil separators are also worthy of discussion. Separators are designed to remove the oil from the blow-by gas and return it to the crankcase. This reduces oil consumption and keeps the belly of the airplane clean. Properly installed, separators work well. 

However, if the system is installed with parts in a cool area under the engine cowling, it can condense all of the water evaporated from the oil and return it to the crankcase. 

If you have a separator, make sure it’s properly installed with the exit tube in a low pressure area which will evacuate the water vapor and not force it back into the crankcase. While preheating and the proper air/oil separator are essential to long engine life, they are no more essential than the oil you use. AeroShell® Oil W 15W-50 offers unsurpassed anticorrosion and antiwear protection for all kinds.

Cranking should be limited to 10 seconds within any 1 minute period. Most starter manufacturers also recommended less than 10 seconds of cranking in any 1 minute period. 

4-6 years is the average lifespan, however they can last longer depending on how they have been maintained, the quality of the charging system and the enviroment used in. 

Tighten the screws to 35 in-lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench then use a screwdriver to tighten firmly (one handed). If you over torque the screws, you will damage the BMS board or loosen the nut.

A good rule of thumb for changing piston engine oil is to change it every four months. Of course for every rule, there are at least two exceptions.

Exception #1: If you're able to fly frequently with proper oil temperature, you should adjust the four-month rule accordingly.  Change out your oil after 50 hours if you've flown the hours in less than four months.  If your engine doesn’t have an oil filter, change it after 25 hours. Always remember: the four-month rule is the most critical.

Exception #2: In recent years, the annual flight hours of many private planes have decreased.

And where there’s an idle plane, there’s rust.  When an airplane engine sits too long (especially in humid climates or if there is excess moisture in the oil because the oil temperature is too low), rust will form on many of the parts such as cams, lifters and cylinders. Then, once the plane has been started, the iron oxide will run through the entire engine oil system. 

While some of the larger pieces will filter out, many of the smaller pieces will remain in the oil and can act as grit on critical wear surfaces. If you don't plan on flying your aircraft for four months or more, be sure to use a storage or preservative oil to protect your engine.

Only when needed which is when the voltage reads below 13.28V. It depends on the battery model (the larger amp hour batteries will need less topping off than say the scooter battery) but if not in use or left in a vehicle, make sure you check the voltage and charge at least once a year. Due to lithium batteries extremely low self-discharge rate, less than 50% of its charge is lost over a 6 month period, so you may not have to charge your battery before the season starts! If the battery is 13.28V or higher, then all is good. If it is less than this, you need to charge it before engine start to ensure a long battery life.

Always refer to the engine manufacturer’s recommendation. If no recommendation is made then we suggest you replace Tempest oil filters every 25 to 50 hours.

1. Check your hoses to make certain that they are not collapsed or kinked.
2. Replace the system filter(s). A dirty or clogged filter will cause the pump to work significantly harder than normal and could cause premature failure.
3. Make sure that you have the correct pump installed on your aircraft.
4. Make sure that no oil contamination is entering the pump.

A common cause for this problem is fuel starvation due to improper installation of the fuel pump. Make sure that the fuel lines are not crossed; that is, the inlet line should be connected to the inlet side of the pump (marked “IN” on the top of the port) and the outlet line should be attached to the fuel pump outlet port. Fuel should be present at the inlet side of the fuel pump.

Improper installation of the fuel pump may result in a misalignment of the operating lever with the operating plunger in the accessory case. If so, there will be no movement of the lever and no pumping motion to provide fuel flow. If misalignment is found upon removal of the pump, the lever is probably damaged or broken. If misalignment of the operating lever has occurred, it will require inspection and repair by a qualified technician.