What is causing my fuel pressure to fall below the “green arc”?
The most common reasons for low fuel flow/pressure are the following:
- A worn or broken O-ring on the inlet side fuel fitting can cause an inlet suction leak. An inlet air leak will result in low Fuel Pump output pressure.
- A weak operating spring in the Fuel Pump diaphragm assembly
- A worn fuel pressure gauge
- A clogged fuel vent or fuel cap
- A constriction in a fuel line either externally (a kinked hose), or internally (due to a collapsed hose lining)
- Wrong fuel pump for the installation
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What is causing my fuel pressure to fluctuate?
Fluctuating fuel pressure can be the result of the following:
- A worn fuel pressure gauge
- A worn or broken O-ring on the inlet side fuel fitting
- An obstruction in the induction system (air intake)
- A clogged or dirty fuel strainer
- Foreign material inside the fuel body (such as fuel cell sealant, thread sealant, or a drill shaving)
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What is causing the fuel (or oil) to leak from my Fuel Pump drain line?
Leaking fuel or oil through the fuel pump overboard drain line indicates the rotary seal is running dry or contamination happened in the field. Your fuel pump should be replaced before further flight.
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Do Tempest oil filters use a magnet?
Yes, all Tempest aviation oil filters use a magnet. This give us an extra layer of defense to help filter out smaller micron particles that may get past the filtration media.
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Does using your shorter oil filter design have a negative effect on filtering my engine’s oil?
The short answer is no. While we recommend using our taller oil filters when you have the space inside your cowling, using our shorter filters will still provide more than enough filtration coverage when replacing them at the recommended intervals of 25 to 50 hours.
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How often should I replace my Tempest oil filter?
Always refer to the engine manufacturer’s recommendation. If no recommendation is made then we suggest you replace Tempest oil filters every 25 to 50 hours.
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Should I use a short or tall Tempest oil filter for my engine?
Both short and tall filters are approved for most engine applications. Determining which height filter to use all depends on the space you have inside the engine cowling. We suggest going with the taller of the approved oil filters if you have the space.
Note: Tempest’s replacement recommendation is the same for both short and tall filters.
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What is the Spin EZ™ oil filter by Tempest?
Tempest created the Spin EZ oil filter to make installation and removal easier and more efficient. A patented solid seal lubricant is applied to our oil filter gasket during manufacturing and requires no oil or DC4 compound prior to installation; making the removal process of a stuck filter a thing of the past.
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What is the difference between a non-dash, a dash one and a dash two aviation oil filter?
Height. Over the years aviation oil filters have gotten shorter to help with installation in tight spaces. The dash two filter by Tempest is the shortest of the certified aviation oil filters on the market.
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What is your torque spec for tightening your oil filters?
We recommend 16-18 ft lbs. of torque or tighten by hand plus a quarter turn.
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What micron rating is your oil filter?
Tempest oil filters use media with a 40-micron rating.
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I frequently need to replace my Dry Air Pump. What could be causing this?
- Check your hoses to make certain that they are not collapsed or kinked.
- Replace the system filter(s). A dirty or clogged filter will cause the pump to work significantly harder than normal and could cause premature failure.
- Make sure that you have the correct pump installed on your aircraft.
- Make sure that no oil contamination is entering the pump.
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Is an overhauled Dry Air Pump as good as a new pump?
We can only speak for Tempest overhauled pumps as we have no control over the quality of other overhaul shops. Before Tempest®/Aero Accessories, LLC offered an overhauled pump, they spent more than a year in research and testing to determine what was required to produce a quality overhauled pump that would last as long as a new pump producing the vacuum or pressure required for aircraft application. In 1984 Tempest®/Aero Accessories, LLC had its overhaul process specification approved by the FAA and began offering quality overhauled vacuum pumps to general aviation. Tempest takes great pride in their state of the art overhaul facility, and produce the best overhauled pump on the market today. Over the years they have acquired FAA-PMA’s for all component parts of the Dry Air Pumps, and have supplied replacement parts to all overhaulers worldwide.
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Should I use a cooling shroud on my dry air pump?
Yes, using a cooling shroud whether on a 200 series or 400 series dry air pump can reduce pump temperatures by as much as 10%. For more information, go to Vacuum Pump Cooling Kit.
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What procedures should be taken when replacing a failed pump?
- A correctly functioning pump creates a vacuum in the system lines, so when the pump fails (due to wear or from FOD which has entered pump) the carbon rotor and vanes break into very fine pieces which can be sucked back up into the inlet hose. It is very important to remove the inlet and outlet hoses from the aircraft and clean them out thoroughly, making sure to remove all particles. It is imperative to clean the entire system after a pump failure. By doing so you will eliminate the chance of premature failure by your new replacement pump as a result of carbon FOD from a previously failed pump entering your new system.
- After you have installed the new replacement pump, check and make sure the aircraft vacuum system is working properly. A faulty regulator , dirty vacuum pump filter, or a crimped or partially collapsed hose which causes a restriction in the system can force to pump to work harder, causing premature failure.
- If your aircraft engine has high time, go ahead and replace the oil seal in the engine case where the pump mounts. The area could be dry now, but the seal could start leaking in just a few hours causing oil contamination in your vacuum pump, making it inoperable. Less than $10 dollars spent here could save you hundreds of dollars later.
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When I start my engine the vacuum gauge reads zero vacuum, but as the engine RPM increases, the gauge will indicate vacuum. What causes this?
The carbon vanes inside the pump are sticking in rotor slots. Oil or solvent has entered the pump either from a bad oil seal in the engine case at the pump mounting area, or from pressure washing the engine with an oil-based solvent (spraying directly on the pump). The oil or solvent will work its way up into the pump through the drive end, mixing with graphite dust and turning into a paste like material.
A Dry Air Pump is just that: DRY. As the carbon rotor and vanes wear, they produce graphite dust which lubricates moving internal parts of the pump. When oil or solvent mixes with this graphite dust, it keeps vanes from moving freely in their slots and they stick. At low engine RPM, the vanes are recessed in their slots and create no vacuum, but as engine RPM increases, centrifugal force slings the vanes out, allowing them to grab air and create vacuum. Once a pump has become contaminated, its life expectancy is extremely short. The cause of pump contamination should be determined and corrected and the pump should be replaced as soon as possible.
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Can PowerUp aftermarket parts be mixed with Champion Slick parts?
Yes! All of the PowerUp Slick Aftermarket parts have been FAA-approved to be equivalent to or improved than Champion Slick parts. PowerUp’s Aftermarket Slick parts have been in production for 30 years and tens of thousands of our parts have been put into service.
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After the start button is released, why does the starter appear to briefly remain engaged?
This is normal for a permanent-magnet starter. Although power is removed by releasing the key/start button, a permanent-magnet motor will actually provide power to itself as it winds down and will keep the starter drive engaged for about a half-second until it loses sufficient RPM to fully disengage.
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Does the starter drive need to be lubricated periodically?
Sticking mechanical starter drives, e.g., Bendix drives, should be cleaned with mineral spirits and only lubricated with silicone spray. Oil or common greases should not be used as they will attract and retain dust and grit causing the starter drive to stick or wear rapidly.
Solenoid-actuated starters do not require any type of cleaning or lubrication. If the starter is not going to be used for some period of time the shaft can be oiled to prevent corrosion.
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How can I tell whether I have 122 teeth or 149 teeth on my Lycoming ring gear?
122 tooth gear rings have a "v" shape, whereas 149 tooth gear rings have a "u" shape. Be aware that just because your aircraft (or engine) is supposed to have a certain ring gear doesn't necessarily mean that it does. You should always confirm and order the correct starter to match.
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