D A M anti-seize works on the principle of very small particles of inert dry lubricants imbedding themselves into the open pores of the stainless steel. The dry lubricants lowers friction and prevent corrosive adhesion of the two stainless steel surfaces. The dry lubricants prevent combustion by products from actually gripping the stainless steel. Other products rely on powdered metal such as copper or nickel in a mix of greases and graphite. The powdered metals themselves are often corrosive to the stainless steel at high temperatures and actually create adhesion by microscopic corrosive residue. The old failed theory is that the metal powder flakes will separate from each other and allow disassembly. This does not work at high temperatures and with stainless steel.  Any graphite in the compound (graphite is required for MIL SPEC anti-seize compounds) sets up a severe galvanic corrosion action with the stainless steel and the powdered metals that produces corrosive by products that swell and lock the joint while attacking the grain structure of the stainless steel. This corrosive action is accelerated at high temperatures and contact with combustion by products.    

Since D A M is a mixture of heavy dry lubricants and light petroleum distillates, it will separate quickly.  Shaking the can often during use keeps the lubricants in suspension. D A M works best when it is rubbed into the stainless steel. Rotation joints back and forth before final assembly will help imbed the dry lubricant particles into the stainless steel surface. Then disassemble and recoat the joint.

 Only a thin film is required to be on the surface of both parts of the exhaust joint so the small can will service many more exhaust joints compared to a big can of pasty grease. 

The high temperature inert dry lubricants are expensive to produce and refine. Since it only takes a thin film to be effective it is more economical than other anti-seize compounds. A can goes much further.

No, D A M does not have any ammonia or other strong chemicals that could attack or shorten the life of any plastic. D A M has a very small amount of alcohol (less than .3%) in a water based solution. The quantity is so small that it has no effect on plastic or other surfaces. D A M is safe on all surfaces.

The polymers and carnauba wax in D A M window cleaner lubricate and encapsulate the abrasive dust and dirt particles so they slide on the plastic surface until they are absorbed deep into the wipe-off towel. The dust and dirt particles are still there, but they cannot get a damaging grip on the plastic surface. After the D A M cleaner is polished off it leaves a protective film that also helps prevent abrasion penetration of dust and dirt particles.

Never wipe a plastic surface when it is dry (or extensively while wet with just water) as some of the abrasive particles will be gouged into the surface, causing scratches.

D A M window cleaner is a mixture of non-toxic wax, polymers, and a mild detergent with the slightest trace of alcohol. It is an irritant to the eyes if it has direct contact.  

There are two types of cloth that work well to prevent scratching on plastics.

The first is the synthetic micro fiber cloth. This soft supple fine matrix cloth will do an excellent job of protecting the acrylic surfaces. The down side of this cloth is that it is expensive and the wax and polymers used in plastic cleaners do not wash out well. The microfiber cloth will have to be thrown away when the wax and dirt buildup prevents a streak free surface.

The other cloth that works well is soft cotton cloth, with the best construction being T-shirt material. The fluffed soft cotton fibers have layers that isolate dust and dirt well from the cloth surface and they can be used many times. The cost is low enough that you can just throw them away when they get contaminated.

Scrubbing the window with your hand is most effective as the cleaner is not being absorbed by a rag. This process gives the cleaner time to soak into the bugs and dirt while distributing the cleaner evenly. A very small rag wet with the cleaner or a VERY SOFT bristle brush also works well. Wash your hands after you are done.

Aircraft windshields and windows are made from a hard durable MIL standard acrylic plastic that has a long service life. However, they are still plastic and can be damaged if not cleaned properly. Aircraft windshields and windows are not only expensive, but changing them takes a lot of expensive labor. Paper towels are made from a matrix of processed wood fibers that can be hard enough to scratch plastic. Paper towels will not damage the acrylic every time they are used, but consistently using them will eventually give you little fine scratch defects that refract light differently than an adjacent smooth surface. The small differences in light refraction will obstruct and distort your view.  

Dust is made up of many little abrasive particles so it is important to isolate the dust particles from the windshield as you wipe. The softer and more expanded the cloth material is, the greater the tendency for the cloth to absorb the dust particles isolating them from the cloth surface. In other words, the dust particles can go deeper into a soft fiber matrix as compared to a harsh hard fiber matrix of paper towels. Dust and dirt particles tend to collect on the hard paper towel surface giving it a sandpaper effect. Gently feel a paper towel surface. Gently feel a T-shirt or micro fiber cloth. The surface hardness is very noticeable. 

In summary, there are really two differences in a paper towel and a soft fiber cloth. One difference is the hardness of the actual fiber and the second is the ability of the fiber matrix to absorb dust particles away from the fiber surface. 

The small holes are normal as they are part of the manufacturing process.

Since inception in 2009, EarthX has designed their lithium batteries with a micro-processor-controlled battery management system (BMS) to provide safety and performance features for your battery.  EarthX is not new to providing lithium iron phosphate batteries. Over the past 13 years, has become the most trusted and used lithium battery in the experimental aircraft market and by working closely with OEM’s and engine manufacturers a like, this BMS has been developed to be one of the most reliable in the industry. EarthX is not only the exclusive provider for the Indy Race Cars, but EarthX is also the first company in the world and in history to have an FAA TSO certified aircraft battery as a testament to the safety and quality of the batteries.  

Features of the BMS protection:

• Cell balancing
• Low voltage protection
• High voltage protection
• Excessive Cranking Protection (Heat)
• Short circuit protection
• In the Hundred series, an alert LED fault light to communicate an issue on battery itself or can be remotely monitored with a 12V LED
• In the Hundred series, the BMS board is redundant so there is no single point failure

Battery design safety features:

• Proprietary battery case design with recessed terminals to protect from short circuiting
• Clam shell design with terminals down the center so polarity (installation) is never an issue
• Flame retardant plastic housing
• The state of the art ceramic cell separators to reduce the risk of thermal runaway by 400% over standard lithium cell separators.

Performance design features:

• The widest operating temperature range available
• A rated cells that must meet stringent testing requirements
• True industry standards testing specifications

No, the voltages are not the same and you will over charge the lead acid battery and drain the lithium.

Yes, lithium battery can be installed in any position for they are a dry cell technology.

The new fully automatic chargers on the market today need to be hooked up to a battery before they will output any voltage. This is primarily a safety feature that prevents spark when hooked up, and protects the charger against reverse polarity hookup. Some chargers need to see as much as 9V volts before they recognize that they are attached to a battery. Once the charger is hooked up, it should output 13.9-14.6 volts. If your charger does not do this, you may want to contact the manufacturer for further troubleshooting tips.

All battery types lose power and capacity as they age. The rate of when this happens depends on the maintenance of the battery and how it has been used (or abused).

• If you notice your battery just doesn’t have the same “umph” as it used to, it might be time to replace it.  In the cold this issue is more prominent.
• If you notice the battery is “swollen.” As the battery ages, gases can build up inside the battery and make the battery look bulging or swollen. The gases are not dangerous or have any safety issue, but the pressure can puff the case.
• If the battery is left in a discharged state and then very quickly charged, the cells can puff causing the case to look bulging.
• The battery will not hold a voltage above 13.28V for the 12V vehicle applications or 26.56V for 24V vehicle applications.
• The fault light is solid or flashing on the battery models that have the LED alert and is consistently on for days.

Cranking should be limited to 10 seconds within any 1 minute period. Most starter manufacturers also recommended less than 10 seconds of cranking in any 1 minute period. 

4-6 years is the average lifespan, however they can last longer depending on how they have been maintained, the quality of the charging system and the enviroment used in. 

Tighten the screws to 35 in-lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench then use a screwdriver to tighten firmly (one handed). If you over torque the screws, you will damage the BMS board or loosen the nut.

Only when needed which is when the voltage reads below 13.28V. It depends on the battery model (the larger amp hour batteries will need less topping off than say the scooter battery) but if not in use or left in a vehicle, make sure you check the voltage and charge at least once a year. Due to lithium batteries extremely low self-discharge rate, less than 50% of its charge is lost over a 6 month period, so you may not have to charge your battery before the season starts! If the battery is 13.28V or higher, then all is good. If it is less than this, you need to charge it before engine start to ensure a long battery life.