Yes, one kit will do both the left and right main landing gear doors.

A rubber based dampener is continuously fatiguing the rubber components as it changes direction of motion. The rubber system depends on stable friction of the rubber riding in a metal tube. This is very difficult to achieve over extended usage. There are inherent differences in static friction of rubber and dynamic friction of rubber that affect dampening performance. Long term use changes the performance of the dampener caused by all of these un-repairable factors. The hydraulic system works in a film oil with stable performance for long periods of time and it is totally repairable.

Strut seal leaks and flat struts can be caused by roll or twist of the main O-ring seal. It is very frustrating to carefully check all the parts and surfaces and put a new seal kit in the strut only to find it flat again after a relatively short time. We have seen this happen when a film of MIL-5606 hydraulic fluid dries out on the exposed chrome strut shaft. MIL-5606 by nature has a tendency to get sticky as it is exposed to air and dirt and then dry.

Very slight dried oil films are sometimes hard to detect and they can get past the plastic wiper seal. When this happens the sticky strut has a tendency to grab the O-ring and roll or twist it when the strut slides in or out causing the seal to distort. A very small O-ring twist or distortion will cause a leak. This phenomena is aggravated by the low pressure that the Cessna strut is designed for. Wipe the chrome strut down with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits) periodically to soften and remove any dried oil film, dirt, dust and bugs.

Wheel pant mounting plates commonly crack around the axle. If any cracks are present, they should be replaced. The cracks are caused by wheel pant vibration. Assure that the wheel pant axle bolts are tight. Proper wheel balance will lessen wheel pant vibration. McFarlane's wheel balancers can help solve this problem.

Marsh Brothers developed a new poylmer formula specifically for aerospace which they call AeroTough™ GF, for "grease free". Lubricant is bult into the polymer, completely eliminating any need for periodic lubrication. 

You don't need to, but it's not a problem if someone doesn't know the bushings have been fitted and decides to put lubrication into the hinges. The bushings will function properly in oil or grease, but it is not necessary. 

The torque link stop lugs are more important than you would think. Overextension of the nose strut due to a worn out stop lug can lead to a cascade of problems. McFarlane A&P mechanics have seen struts over extend to the point where the metering pin comes out of the orifice. This results in loss of damping action and the pin hammering the orifice every landing and distorting and enlarging it. Over time, the excess nose strut travel and lack of damping can result in fatigue cracks in the torque link arms. McFarlane recommends thoroughly inspecting all nose strut components when replacing a severely worn stop lug.

The stop lug also acts as a centering device aligning the nose wheel and wheel pant straight with the airplane and slip stream after it has left the runway. Worn stop lugs can allow the nose wheel to lock in a turned position in flight that will require holding rudder for coordinated flight. Retractable gear aircraft depend on the stop lug to properly center the nose gear steering before it retracts into the wheel well.

When hydraulic oil changes temperature, the volume of the oil also changes. This volume change from a temperature reduction will create a vacuum in the oil chamber of the original Cessna uncompensated shimmy dampener. This vacuum will cause the oil to vaporize giving the oil a foamy expanded mixture that is compressible. The shimmy  dampener action is then drastically degraded. An increase in temperature will increase the oil volume causing a drastic pressurization of the dampener oil chamber. This pressure will force small quantities of oil past the dampener shaft seals. The decrease in oil will then aggravate any temperature reduction with increased chamber vacuum and related oil vaporization. This process explains why continuous servicing of the original shimmy dampener is required.

The temperature compensation system works by having a small chamber of oil that is spring pressurized through a very small passage into the main dampening restrictive orifice of the shimmy dampener. The spring loaded oil chamber can adjust for oil volume changes as temperature changes. A similar system is built into your car shock absorbers. The temperature compensated hydraulic system requires very little service over extended periods of time and assures stable shimmy dampening action.

Longer life-time, grease-free operation, does not support corrosion, decrease in weight, self lubricates. 

It is very important to maintain proper torque for the bolts that clamp the chrome bushing/spacer at the upper attachments to the steering collar and the lower attachment to the nose gear strut. It is commonly thought that the chrome bushing/spacer is kept in position by the bolt filling the center bore of the bushing/spacer. This is not correct as the inner bore of the chrome bushing/spacer and the bolt are a loose non-precision fit. The bushing/spacer is secured by the bolt end, clamping the spacer so that it is tight between the arms of the aluminum forgings. Any looseness of this end clamp will allow movement of the chrome bushing/spacer. This movement will erode the aluminum forgings and create more free motion of the torque link.

All shimming of the torque links must be done with proper torque on the bolts. Periodically and during nose gear inspections, check the torque on the upper and lower torque link bolts. If the chrome bushing/spacer is allowed to move, the resultant wear can require replacement of the expensive aluminum forgings. McFarlane is working on a repair for the worn aluminum forgings. Unlike our competitors, extra care is given to the machining of the McFarlane chrome bushing/spacers to give the largest possible bearing surface to the ends that bear against the aluminum forgings. Chamfers or bevels are kept very small.

There are many components all connected to keep the nose gear in line. If one component is worn or out of tolerance it can cause shimmy problem. Reference Dave McFarlane’s article: Can You Stop Nose Gear Shimmy instructions and suggestions.

Overlooked items also include the rod ends, shimmy dampener mounting and attachment, shimmy dampener, and steering collar. The steering collar is where the steering rod tubes connect and the upper torque link is attached to, along with the shimmy dampener on most aircraft. If the steering collar has play vertically and laterally and is allowed to tilt; that will cause excessive wear and force on the torque links, steering, and strut components. There are three different thicknesses of shims to help get the collar in place.

Ensure that the shimmy dampener is working properly with no dead spots in dampening action. The cylinder could be worn on the inside or on a piston that warrants replacement of components. All of the nose strut components are tied to each other and any movement is transmitted through to the tire and back through the dampening system, which if remedied will continue to be more pronounced.

It's just a matter of removing the doors, pressing out the steel bushings and then pressing in the replacement parts. The kits include all necessary hardware including new bolts and spacers. Where the OEM sleeve part is flanged, the space is made up with a thin washer. Installation videos are available to demonstrate kit installation. 

Removing the flanged bushings from the torque link forging can be difficult as there is not a good surface to press against or grab onto. An easy way to remove them is to thread them with a tap, screw a bolt in the thread you made, and then drive or press against the bolt. The thread does not have to be a full depth thread for the bolt to hold securely in the bushing. The bushing material is somewhat hard, but not so hard that a standard hardware store tap will not do the job. Use cutting oil on the tap to prevent tap damage. Normally the bushing will then come out easily.

For stubborn bushings, soak the link assembly in boiling water before pressing the bushing. The heat will expand the aluminum forging more than the steel bushing. This helps loosen the press fit while limiting the temperature to prevent from overheating and harming the heat treat of the aluminum forging. A controlled oven can be substituted for boiling water as a heat source, but do not exceed 350° F. Do not use flame or other non-controlled heat sources.

An alternate method is to put dry ice in the bushing before driving or pressing on the bolt you threaded into the bushing. Do not over-press or hammer as the aluminum can gall to the bushing and leave a damaged bushing bore. If the bushing does not come out with light to moderate force take the time to use some heat or cold to help.

The kits fit exactly the same space that the OEM parts do. However, the most important difference is that the parts in the kits cannot corrode or seize together because of the self lubricating polymer bushings used to replace the steel bushings. If the steel OEM parts corrode and seize, the result is costly repairs to the supporting structure in the wing.