Placing a permanent reference mark at 180°F on the green band of your oil gauge is a good way to get accurate readings.  To do this, simply place your sending unit and an accurate, referenced thermometer in a steel container filled with oil, and slowly heat it to 180°F with a hot plate. You may not be able to hold 180°F constant, so first mark your gauge with a pencil as the oil temperature passes 180°F. Then let the oil cool back to 180°F. Repeat the process to ensure accuracy. 

And be extra careful with the hot oil. In a naturally aspirated aircraft engine, a cruise oil temperature significantly below 170°-180°F will not ensure that the moisture in the oil is boiled off, especially during short flights. As oil goes through the engine, the highest instantaneous temperature will be about 50°F higher than the oil sump temperature. 

So, if you have an oil temperature of only 150°-160°F, the oil will not get above the 212°F necessary to boil off the water that can accumulate from condensation. The result is increased moisture and acid buildup in the crankcase, which will probably lead to rust and corrosion. 

Knowing this is especially critical if your aircraft is not flown regularly and sits in a humid climate for weeks at a time. If your oil runs well below the 180°F mark, have your mechanic check your oil cooler system and vernatherm. Also, ask about a winterization kit. 

Conversely, the concern with the typical turbocharged piston engine is excessive heat. In many of these engines, instantaneous oil temperature can increase 70°F or more at its hottest point versus sump temperature.  These high temperatures can cause deposit buildup and increased wear due to improperly cooled components or low oil viscosity. (All oils, especially single grade oils, thin out as the temperature

Yes, low oil temperature can lead to excessive rusting and corrosion of critical engine parts. When an aircraft sits on the ramp or in a hangar, the engine heats up during the day and cools again at night. While the engine is cooling, some of the moisture in the air condenses on the engine walls and drops into the oil. 

This can form rust on internal engine components. The moisture can also react with by-products of combustion in the oil,forming acids which can lead to corrosion. The best way to remove this water is for the engine to boil it off during flight. Studies have shown that the temperature of your engine oil increases about 50°F as it circulates through the engine.

Therefore, unless the oil temperature reaches 170°F to 180°F during flight, the engine will not boil off the water that has accumulated in the crankcase. The result: rust and corrosion.

Note that an excessively high oil temperature will also cause problems. Here are some tips to help avoid oil temperature problems:

Check your oil temperature gauge for accuracy. It should read about 212°F when the sensor is placed in boiling water.

Monitor the oil temperature during flight. It should be about 180°F even in winter. If it is lower, you may need a winterization kit. Otherwise, check with your mechanic to see what is causing the excessively low oil temperature.

The unique additive feature in anticorrosion/antiwear AeroShell® Oil W 15W-50 can also help control problems caused by rust and corrosion.

Unlike Cold Cranking Ampere (CCA), the Pulse Cranking Ampere (PCA) rating does not have an “official” definition by the automotive industry. CCA tests are done at 0 deg F with a 30 second discharge time which is unrealistic for most motorsport vehicles. PCA is a measure of battery discharge amps for <10 seconds at 77 deg F (25 deg C). Our manual shows the CCA and PCA rating of each battery. The CCA rating is most important for snowmobiles due to the colder temperatures.

SAFE-HEET engine heaters are installed with a two-part adhesive. The engine heater can be installed quickly and easily by using the 707 temperature controller at half power. At temperatures below 70°F the temperature controller must be used to ensure proper adhesive cure. Proper adhesive cure is essential to full service life of the heater.

First, if you’re “breaking in” your engine on mineral oil during the winter, always take extra precautions to ensure that the engine is properly preheated prior to flight.  For example, if your service bulletins recommend preheating the engine whenever the temperature is below 20°F, you may want to increase that to 30-35°F when using straight mineral oil. 

Another concern is that mineral oil is more prone to oil cooler plugging at low temperatures.  This is especially critical on aircraft used for high altitude flight where temperatures are even lower.  If an aircraft is going to be broken in during the winter or at high altitudes, you should consider using a winterization kit.  The kit will reduce airflow through the oil cooler and reduce the chance of oil cooler freeze-up.  (However, be sure to remove the winterization kit when it’s no longer needed.) 

During winter break-in and high altitude flight, pilots should also be especially observant of their oil temperature and pressure.  If the oil pressure or oil temperature moves significantly up or down in flight, you may be experiencing oil cooler plugging or bypassing.  If this occurs, you should take appropriate action.

There are several ways of repairing worn cowl surfaces. Epoxy fill is sometimes used for minor wear, or flush or double flush riveted aluminum doubler plates can be formed and installed over the damage. McFarlane has a high temperature (400deg F) sandable two part epoxy with an aluminum filler that works well for filling minor cowl skin defects; please see P/N 20 GLUE KIT. Consult with your A&P mechanic for the best repair solution for your aircraft.

The oils are similar, but there are some differences. The biggest difference is in cold flow characteristics. AeroShell Oil W 100 is up to 10 times thicker at cold temperatures than AeroShell Oil W 15W-50.  However, at normal operating temperatures (around 200°F), both oils will have the same thickness or viscosity.  Another major difference is that AeroShell Oil W 15W-50 and AeroShell Oil W 100 Plus have an antiwear additive which is not in AeroShell Oil W 100. This additive, along with the semisynthetic base oils, helps reduce friction and improve flow in AeroShell Oil W 15W-50. 

These additives improve lubrication and reduce oil consumption past the oil rings. Conversely, the improved flow can increase oil loss through leaks or loose intake valve guides.  So your oil consumption may go up or down if you switch from AeroShell Oil W 100 to AeroShell Oil W 15W-50. The improved flow and reduced friction characteristics of AeroShell® Oil W 15W-50 will also help reduce oil temperatures as opposed to using AeroShell Oil W 100. 

This is particularly important in engines that run hot, like turbocharged, high performance or aerobatic aircraft engines. Pilots should always remember to monitor oil temps to ensure that they’re not too hot. 

In cold weather, you should also make sure that the engine temperature is high enough to boil off the water that naturally accumulates in the crankcase. Temperatures in the 180° to 200°F range are recommended for most applications. Finally, if you have a marginal or slipping starter clutch, the antiwear additive in AeroShell Oil W 15W-50 may cause it to slip more than AeroShell Oil W 100.  Understanding these differences can help you select the grade of AeroShell that's right for your plane.

Removing the flanged bushings from the torque link forging can be difficult as there is not a good surface to press against or grab onto. An easy way to remove them is to thread them with a tap, screw a bolt in the thread you made, and then drive or press against the bolt. The thread does not have to be a full depth thread for the bolt to hold securely in the bushing. The bushing material is somewhat hard, but not so hard that a standard hardware store tap will not do the job. Use cutting oil on the tap to prevent tap damage. Normally the bushing will then come out easily.

For stubborn bushings, soak the link assembly in boiling water before pressing the bushing. The heat will expand the aluminum forging more than the steel bushing. This helps loosen the press fit while limiting the temperature to prevent from overheating and harming the heat treat of the aluminum forging. A controlled oven can be substituted for boiling water as a heat source, but do not exceed 350° F. Do not use flame or other non-controlled heat sources.

An alternate method is to put dry ice in the bushing before driving or pressing on the bolt you threaded into the bushing. Do not over-press or hammer as the aluminum can gall to the bushing and leave a damaged bushing bore. If the bushing does not come out with light to moderate force take the time to use some heat or cold to help.

Most of the time, it means you need to charge the battery as it is at a low charge level but it could mean several things. First thing you need to do it put a voltmeter on the battery, if the voltage is less than 13.28V, the LED light will flash to let you know to charge the battery. If the voltage is above 13.28V and flashing, then you could have a weak cell /a cell out of balance/or defective cell and you need to contact EarthX for a warranty coverage if it is less than 2 years old. The LED will also flash if the voltage is too high, above 14.6V. If the light is solid and remains on for more than 10 minutes, then it is an indication of a BMS electronics problem and contact EarthX.